Dry-fit the entire face frame together, and label both Measure for any intermediate divider stiles or other rails. Step 3: On a large worksurface, set the rails and stiles face down and into to give youĪ little “wiggle” room when installing it and, if necessary, scribing it to anĪdjacent cabinet. Will make your face frame overhang the edges of the cabinet by 1/8 in. Use a long rule to measure from the stiles over to the opposite edge Set the stiles together and so they’re lined up with the outside face of theĬabinet side. An easy way to find the exact length of the top and bottom rails is to Step 2: Measure the height of your cabinet carcass, and crosscut the outer stiles Any intermediate stiles, such as for the doorĭivider we’ll show here, should fit between the top and bottom rails. The outermost stiles should run the full height of your cabinet, with the top andīottom rails fitting in between them. Workpieces overly long so you can cut them to exact length as you build the frame. Rip the rails and stiles to the width you desire, and leave the Face frame components are typically between 1 1/2 and 2 Step 1: Joint and plane stock for your face frame parts so the stiles and rails Here’s how to dress up your next cabinet project with a pocket screwed face frame. With a simple jig, making a pocket-screw joint is simple: Drill a pair of stopped holes and drive two self-tapping screws to lock the joint. You can use a variety of joinery options for making face frames, including dowels, mortise-and-tenons or even small biscuits, but none of these alternatives are as fast as pocket screws. They can also help correct minor plywood bowing and give you a means of fitting one cabinet against its neighbor. Trim out a cabinet the classic way using pocket-screw joints.įace frames provide attachment points for door hinge and latch hardware, while hiding the front edges of the cabinet box.
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